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Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux “Mise Tardive” 2019 Domaine Pattes Loup
The Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux “Mise Tardive” 2019 by Domaine Pattes Loup reveals a richer and deeper side of Chablis while retaining the mineral tension that makes this part of Burgundy so distinctive. It is a Chardonnay of considerable personality, combining the generosity of the 2019 vintage with the particular character of the Butteaux climat and the natural winemaking philosophy of Thomas Pico.
The name Butteaux derives from butte, meaning “upper part of the hill”, an accurate description of the position of this Premier Cru. The vineyards sit at a relatively high altitude, on south- and southeast-facing slopes with good ventilation, conditions that encourage slow and even ripening. Beneath the vines lie Kimmeridgian limestone marls, often relatively shallow, while the surface is composed of white and blue clay mixed with large stones. This structure provides natural drainage while contributing to the distinctive mineral character of Chablis Chardonnay.
Thomas Pico approaches this exceptional terroir with a deliberately low-intervention philosophy. At Domaine Pattes Loup, the grapes undergo spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts, with only minimal sulphur used and no filtration before bottling. Rather than imposing a technical style, the aim is to allow the fruit and vineyard to express themselves as naturally and transparently as possible.
In the glass, the 2019 vintage shows a particularly expressive personality. The nose is broad and floral, combining ripe pear and apple, yellow fruit, almond and delicate lees-derived aromas, gradually gaining depth and complexity as the wine opens. Extended ageing contributes further layers while preserving the freshness of the fruit.
The palate is rich, dense and structured, yet far from static. Ripe fruit and generous texture are balanced by vibrant mineral freshness and a pronounced saline character that gives the wine energy throughout its progression. This contrast between volume and tension is central to its identity: a Chablis capable of considerable richness without sacrificing precision.
The finish is long, savoury and persistent, with subtle spicy nuances completing an increasingly complex and layered profile. A Premier Cru that is already compelling for its depth and generosity, while possessing the structure and balance to develop further with bottle age.
